Tuesday, September 30


>From baikaltour@gin.global-one.ru Tue Sep 30 07:47:02 1997
Subject: Let it snow, let it snow, let it snow!

Hello on a Tuesday evening, everyone!  Today we returned to Benjamin's
orphanage for an encore of the 4-year-old music class.  This time we were
prepared with a video camera and treats for the kids.  It was once again a
very special performance.  It's all we could do to keep from renting a bus
and taking all of the kids with us.  They sang several traditional Russian
songs -- together with adorable hand-motions -- and mugged for us the whole
time.  Afterward, we actually wrote a letter of recommendation for the
teacher of the class, who is looking to get certified for her job.  That
was very interesting!  We wrote a page-long note praising her and the
children, and Valentina translated it for us.  The performance was
precious, but ultimately bittersweet.  Having reached the age of four, it
is likely that many of those kids will live their entire lives in
orphanages.

We visited Benjamin's bedroom and playroom one last time as well.  We
visited for a while and played with the toddlers.  Once again we were moved
by the degree to which the caregivers are attached to Ben.  As we were
leaving, one of the women ran out to catch us, spoke to Benjamin in
Russian, gave him a hug, wished us good luck and happiness, and then
hurriedly turned away to hide her tears.  She was not the first to react
that way.  During our visit, the chief psychologist of the orphanage told
us that after children find families, after a while they no longer seem to
belong when they visit the orphanage.  She commented then that Benjamin
already seems like a stranger.  She said that she noticed a different look
in his eyes.  One thing that we could clearly see was a look of sadness and
loneliness in the eyes of the other children.  They are given wonderful
care there, and the orphanage is clean and well-run, but there is no
substitute for a home and regular individualized care.  We're glad to say
that we see no such look in Sasha's eyes.

Because the children don't wear diapers, you can imagine how important it
is to have them potty-trained rapidly!  One of the amusing moments of the
visit was our observance of a potty-training session for two of the
one-year olds.  Perhaps we can learn something for Ginny's sake!  Speaking
of using the potty, we must interject another curious aspect of Russian
culture at this point.  We were more than a little dismayed upon our
arrival to discover that public lavatories here DO NOT PROVIDE TOILET
PAPER!  Evidently you have to bring your own, or ... ugh!  The alternative
gives us great pause.  It seems like we could make a fortune just opening
up a toilet paper stand in every airport!

Seeing all of the kids today made us all the more homesick for Zack, Milly
and Ginny.  We are pleased, however, to know what good hands they are in. 

We awoke today to find frost/snow on the uncovered patches of ground.  Then
this afternoon there was a furious flurry for about 15 minutes.  No
accumulation, but suddenly every thought we had about Siberia before
travelling here came on in full force.  Bill A., thanks for the advice, but
I'm not sure we're going to make it out before the snow comes!  Granted, no
matter how much snow there is, our flight to Moscow (Oct. 8) will still
leave.  Heck, what's a little snow to a Siberian?  But it won't do much for
our peace of mind.  Picture a lifetime southerner riding in the snow with a
cocky northern driver (like yours truly!).  It might actually be safe, but
you'll never be convinced of it!  ;-)  Actually, of more immediate concern
is the fact that the temperature has dropped enough to make it unpleasant
to take walks any more.  One more obstacle to overcome in trying to avoid
cabin fever!

That's it for today.  We hope this message finds you all well and happy. 
We are both here, because of Benjamin, and also because of how many
wonderful friends and relatives we have waiting at home.

Love, Kevin & Julie